Great guide on how to do this from Apple, available here.
In short, it’s a pretty simple process. BIND has been the DNS source of choice for macOS for a long time now, and it’s a moderately simple process to download the latest build, do the standard ./configure nonsense, create a launchd .plist to fire the thing up on boot, and then configure/edit the zone files found in /Library/Server/named.
Bonus? It’s actually a little easier to work with. One of the things that would make me bash my head against a wall was macOS Server’s occasional behavior of hanging, or falsely reporting that changes had/hadn’t been made. With BIND you make your changes to /Library/Server/named/named.conf then just sudo killall -HUP to reload the service and use the changes instantaneously. It’s a trifle more work on the config side, but a boon for reliability…